Keeping cigars: humidor, humidity and care
Cedar humidor, relative humidity, acclimatisation, ageing, mould and plume: the basics for keeping cigars in good condition at home.
The humidor and Spanish cedar
Spanish cedar (Cedrela odorata, a relative of mahogany rather than a true cedar) is the traditional wood for humidors and cigar boxes: it moderates moisture exchange and gives off a discreet scent. A humidor is judged by its seal: a lid that closes without play, straight hinges and a lining without gaps. For first use, wipe the interior with a cloth dampened with distilled water, taking care not to soak the wood, then close it with the humidifier filled with distilled water. Wait a day or two, until the hygrometer settles, before putting any cigar inside.
Humidity and temperature
Aim for a relative humidity of 65 to 72 per cent and a temperature of 16 to 21 °C. Above 75 per cent, mould becomes a risk; above about 23 °C, tobacco beetle larvae develop faster. Hygrometers often drift, so calibrate yours with the salt test: leave it for 24 hours in an airtight bag with a bottle cap of salt moistened into a paste, which holds the air at about 75 per cent, and the difference you read is the correction to apply. Fill the humidifier with distilled water or a suitable solution and check it weekly.
Acclimatisation and quarantine
A new cigar, or one that has spent a long time outside a humidor, needs acclimatisation: let it settle for several days, even a week or two, in conditions close to those of the humidor before storing it. A parcel received by post goes first into quarantine, unwrapped, in a separate box for several weeks: look for tiny holes, fine dust or insects before mixing it with the rest. Regular rotation, roughly once a month, stops cigars at the top and bottom from ageing differently.
Ageing
Ageing is slow and discreet. Over the years the tobacco rounds out: the sharp or ammonia-like notes of young cigars tend to fade, flavours blend, and woodier or earthier nuances may appear. Effects vary with the vitola: a slim format changes quickly, a thick one more slowly, and not every cigar gains from waiting; some lose their vibrancy. The result also depends on the tobacco, the fermentation and the storage conditions, so nothing can be promised. It is wiser to taste one at regular intervals and note what changes.
Mould, plume and insects
Mould forms cottony or powdery patches, blue, green or white, with a musty smell, and it penetrates the wrapper. Plume is a fine, white, crystalline bloom, dry and glittering, that lifts off with a light stroke of a soft brush. The tobacco beetle (Lasioderma serricorne) leaves small holes and fine dust. Affected cigars can be frozen for 48 to 72 hours at about -20 °C, but never unprotected: first seal them in an airtight bag, then thaw them gradually in the refrigerator before bringing them to room temperature, otherwise condensation and frost damage the wrapper.
Reviving a dry cigar
A dried-out cigar can sometimes be rehumidified, but only slowly. Place it in the humidor at 65 to 70 per cent relative humidity and leave it to recover for several weeks, sometimes a month or more, without exposing it to steam or water: a sudden recovery splits the wrapper. The limits are real: a wrapper that has already cracked will not close, natural oils that have gone do not return, and the flavour may stay flatter than before. Before smoking, press the cigar gently: it should spring back without crackling.
Bloom · Humidifier · Mould